Tooleing Around : Day 16

Breakfast at the hotel wasn’t so great.
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Looks like there is a lot to see around Bozeman, so I booked in here for a second night .
Plenty of space in my Ramada suite, though the TV size to bed distance ratio is well off, binoculars needed. I’m sleeping like Rip Van Winkle this trip no matter what the bed.AD707260-D84A-4C69-8210-713D752BB751
Grabbed some eggs, but couldn’t drink the Ramada’s weewee Java. I drove to Main Street and found Wild Joes Coffee.
A bit of a contradiction, Wild Joes has the peace, love and happiness vibe of a college town, and a couple of semi-automatic rifles in the window. A modern look with high ceilings , very good cappuccino  and delicious, fresh, cheddar,  maple , bacon scone. Best scone I’ve ever eaten. I almost caved and took a food photo.
Ellen sat down beside me on the coffee shop, leather sofa. Out of NYC, upper West Side, from the same street my wife lived on. Ellen moved here to be near her daughter, who’s has a baby due January. Ellen misses all things Manhattan. Only here a month and working the local radio station, she has not figured the place out yet. Like Manhattan, no one she had met yet is actually a local. Her daughter fell for Bozeman for the skiing. Snowboarding and hiking. Bedsides the college, that seems to be the main draw.
Ellen did not strike me as a selfie candidate.
Everyone told me I had to go to The Museum of the Rockies, so I went to The Museum of the Rockies.
The sign on the paleontology room door said knock if I had questions. I had questions , I knocked.
Anne came out of the dinosaur bone cleaning lab to answer my questions. Her expression said “No one ever knocks. “.
Montana is renowned for its excavation sites, particularly in the North East. Back in the 1880s there was a bone prospecting rush on the region, when every museum in the world wanted a full dinosaur skeleton. The Natural History Museum on the Upper West Side features many pieces from Montana .
Anne’s family’s , Romers , are originally out of Pleasantville NY and claim a few street names there. 30 years in Bozeman, she loves the town, but felt you need to be fourth generation to be considered a local.
The University is renowned for paleontology studies.
Anne is a volunteer bone cleaner, as was her bone scraping colleague, from Brooklyn. The Museum has one of the best Triceratops collections globally , the display ranging across size from infant to big old adult, an imposing display.

And that’s Dr. Bones paleontology lesson for today kiddies.

There was also a Native American Indian exhibit and a display of wagons and old vehicles, and a cannon. I flew through those and bypassed the Planetarium.
It really is an extremely inviting museum and the excellent gift store a bonus – bought a Dino-cap and key chain. Diane, upbeat and helpful, warned me about fires in Glacier National Park and that seasonal closings are starting up there. They can get snow this early around here.

As I was told, Bozeman is the fastest growing Micropolitan (a town of under 50k) in the country. Bozeman had a population of on 17k when Diane moved from Minnesota 47 years ago.

No one is from Bozeman.
It got cold here today.
I drove a half hour on the back roads to the Montana Grizzly Encounter, a rescue shelter.
Ella, manning the ticket hut, at the Grizzly Encounter is here from France with her boyfriend.
They currently host five rescues at the Encounter. Each bear has its own personality and they don’t all like one another, so the bears come out in public when they feel like. Only Brutus was feeling like it today .
Paige, the MC, knew her bear facts inside out and rattled them off like an enthusiastic auctioneer at a cattle mart.
Amy, working in the gift store,out of Minnesota, commented on my accent. She felt she lost her accent since she moved here. She hadn’t that I could hear but then all you Americans sound the same to me.

They call this time of the year the newly weds and nearly dead’s season. Such are the visitors. The kids are all back at school. The sanctionary is open all year long.

Amy, is one of 3 business owners of Grizzly Encounter and actually does the rescues. She also runs a non profit rescue and recently rescued a yearling bear cub that was adopted in Texas. Amys oldest rescue was 18 years old with a twin, now 32, and still at the Rescue. The twin died of leukemia.
Amy had rescued dozens of black and Grizzly/Brown beers over the years.  The sanctuary construction started in 2002, opened in 2004. Thd five bear, currently housed, cost $900 a week to feed.
I learned today that a Grizzly is a Brown bear.
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Brutus the oldest rescue was the size of a squirrel when he was first brought in. He now weighs 900lbs. You’d know him from commercials and movie appearances, and I believe he did Oprah.
Amy actually ran off with the circus when she was 17. That’s where she developed her love for bears.
While I was chatting. Amy got a random email from a Paige O ‘ Toole, looking to volunteer at the center. No family member of mine, this is real work.
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Each day a live goat is thrown in the enclosure and the bears get to fight for mutton and their survival. Keeps it real.
Today was Ginny’s turn.
I said my goodbyes to Ginny and headed away in tears.
“Kaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarl!”
It’s a Joke!
Just like the bears, the goats are treated royally.
I dropped  a few dollars in the jam jar by the cash register for goat food and went on my merry way.
Visit the Grizzly Encounter when you go to Montana, support the wildlife and have a chat with Amy.
I finished “Fear” on Audio book. Per rule of travel #6: Keep my opinions to myself (the toughest of rules), I’m keeping my gob shut.
I will just say, it’s very well read.
Continuing the boostore quest, the Country Bookstore had a staff that really knew their books and authors and helped me with Montana based scribes. The store has been on Main Street 61 years.
It was explained that the town is now jokingly referred to as  Bozangelis, there are so many blow ins. Catherine, the bookworm, was from outside Chicago and had lived years in Manhattan.
Still no one from Bozeman.
A well traveled friend advised that when I saw a hotel laundry to use it. There was a laundry by the hotel gym, I used the laundry and the gym (gym being a very generous description of a closet with a couple of bits and bobs).
Paleontology and Bearology in one day, a veritable Karl Cousteau.
Dinner at the Montana Ale House, a very large, wood beamed establishment in town and about the only place that served until 10 and it was fairly hopping. I have to say, they are a healthy looking bunch of people in Bozeman.  All that fresh air and snow games, I guess.
Dan Naillon, eating at the Ale House, had one of the more interesting life stories I’ve heard on the road. Dan, originally out of California, was just passing through Bozeman too and was sipping a Macallen at the bar. He’d gotten in after dark, a few minutes before.
Working previously as a certified Audi mechanic , Dan has been driving 18 wheelers cross country the past couple of years.
He contracts with the oil companies , hauling fracking sand to North Dakota oil fields, in all kinds of extreme weather. Including truck weight , each load weighs 80k pounds. A fill of diesel  costs between seven and eight hundred dollars and gets him a thousand miles.
Dan is a long time insomniac, which he feels suits his job. He works 100 plus hours a week, driving ten thousand miles monthly. For the most part, he loves the job.

Dan has a Nicaraguan girlfriend and had been getting to that country frequently, over the past 24 months , taking expensive, complicated and long flights. Things have gotten messy for Dan and the lady. With the political situation worsening in Nicaragua his girlfriend has moved between there, Spain and now Costa Rica. Dans trying to figure where to lay his hat.

Dan lives out of the back of his semi, for the most part. It’s the size of a studio apartment.
It was a fascinating conversation for me.
All I ever knew about long distance truckers before tonight , I learned from that terrible movie Convoy with Kris Kristofferson … you know the song “This here’s the Rubber Duck”. I knew nothing about fracking.
Dans driving back to North Dakota tomorrow. Another long haul.
I never did meet anyone from Bozeman .
The Tally:
Hotel : $105
Dinner: $14 – very good
Museums & Grizzlys: $20
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Tooleing Around: Day 15

 

I saw a lot of the great outdoors today.

I thought about going to the Buffalo Bill Museum, Cody’s big attraction . But it’s a beautiful day, too nice for indoors, and a friend commented the Museum is just ok. For Guns and Indians, I will rewatch Dances With Wolves.
So I’m going to drive the 222 miles to Bozeman, Montana, which will take me through Yellowstone.37823BEA-FBD0-4E03-AC3E-C7123A39CDB2
Last nights Motel was a bed and a scrub, nothing to write home about.
They had a very nice Bible. Not something I mentioned before but, I’ve been taking the Bible, as a souvenir, from every place I stay in. I believe they are free. Every Bible tells the story of the lodging. It will be fun to decide which Bible from which town I give to which friend as a memento of my trip.
Disaster ! I left my Kiehls moisturizer with Butch in Buffalo. I had to pick up some common or garden facial cream at Walgreens. I hope I don’t break out in some strange Cowboy rash.
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Back to Rawhide Coffee for a poppyseed muffin and cappuccino breakfast. It was on my way out of Cody.
Wyoming was not even on my original list of destinations and I’ve spent three great days there.
This driving leg took me through Buffalo Bill National Park , through Shadonic State Park and into Yellowstone, making this my new most spectacular drive ever.
I used to consider motorcyclists the  rebels of the road, oozing danger and cool. Marlon Brando – The Wild One; Fonda, Hopper & Nicholson – Easy Rider; PeeWee – Big Adventure.
Now all Harley riders I meet or see are just south of octogenarian . I was stuck behind one on the way to Yellowstone , riding slowly enough I thought he’d topple.
Part of today’s Yellowstone drive took me through the burn and around the radiant Yellowstone Lake. The Burn, as the name might suggest, is a vast swathe of the forest that was taken out by fire in 1988. 36% of trees went up in flame.
The forests here like their burns, they keep the ecology healthy and typically take down older trees that take in Pine Beetles. Just not that big. Unless homes or structures are threatened, the policy is to let the fires burn. All this info from the lady in the bookstore.
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Ron and Diane Varley, were taking photos, in a pond just off the Lake, of what looked like a beaver dam. Coming from just north of Dallas, they are very seasoned travelers and gave me some great guidance as I heading North towards Glacier National Park.Ron was in the air force, stationed in Germany and traveled over to England a lot.
I returned some guidance for their possible impending 10 trip to Ireland, after they visit Barcelona and Copenhagen as part of a European cruise.
Dam, no Beaver.
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But a Buffalo just walked past my parked car.
I did quite a bit of moseying around Yellowstone.
I checked out the Dragons Mouth Spring, a violent cauldron of boiling water exploding from a cave. Then on to the broiling Mud Volcano. Nature at its most impressive. The mud volcano stinks more that anyones warning led me to expect.
Needed to wee so used the public bathrooms. The hot springs don’t smell so bad anymore.
Bumped into Ron & Diane again, taking photos across the fly fishing river. They highly recommended I see Many Glacier, they’d seen a lot of grizzly and brown bear up there, but warned that there are fires up at Glacier National Park. Found out they also lived 14 years in Hawaii. This delightful couple is living life. Uplifting stuff.
My intention was to drive through Yellowstone today but it’s impossible not to get caught up in the place : rivers, mountains, plains, Buffalo, geysers and I just scratched the surface . If you’ve not been, add to your bucket list.
When I got through the park I stopped in West Yellowstone, Montans and found Book Peddler, a combined coffee shop and bookstore. Stopped in and had a very good marmalade scone and a decent coffee. The bookstore primarily deals in western history, Yellowstone related travelogues and coffee table books and a spattering of fiction, mostly mysteries . Of course a Longmire display.
I bought a book called The Big Burn about the immense forest fire of 1910, in Yellowstone.
West Yellowstone is built for the tourists but has some interesting older buildings and vintage Motel signage.
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Headed on to Bozeman, winding  along the river , through the Montana mountains, then through Big Sky. I started to see orange warning signs for an “Incident Ahead”.
I figured there was an accident, but no, a forest fire. I drove through smoke for a few minutes, with trees burning on my left. Seemed to be par for the course here, no one seemed particularly concerned or interested.
My first forest fire!6E44EF88-398E-473C-B3BD-E66B20EADC87
Bozeman is the home of the Montana State University, so it’s got a buzzy Main Street with good looking bars and restaurants.
Before heading to the hotel, I stopped for a burger at Backcountry Burger Bar on Main Street, Bozeman. Most places close at 9.
Started a conversation with Weston and Elliot, two young dudes at the counter. Elliot came here from Portland four years ago for the skiing and works as a carpenter . Weston is s college graduate currently working construction . There’s a lot of new building in town.
We talked RVs a bit. A lot of people out here live that lifestyle and have personalized jobs done on their vehicles. There are two customization outfitters in Bozeman, for RVs. The primo RV would seem to be the Mercedes Sprinter, starting at $80k barebones.
The guys recommended I stop at Missoula on the way north to Glacier National Park, they described it as pretty hippy. My researcher informs me it’s the home town of David Lynch. Sold!
They also recommend the hiking around here, there’s a lot.
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Talked to Sam Crotchlow, the founding head of schools, for a new private school here in Bozeman. They started up two years ago. There are currently at 25 students but steadily growing. It’s a day school not boarding and they will be looking for new digs soon.
Sam was a fountain of information and recommendations. A man after my own heart, he pointed me to Atlas Obscura and a couple of local obscure sites. Both his father and sister are involved in film.
Bozeman is a money town. The Yellowstone Club ,Big Sky is close by with the likes of Tom Brady as members. They have a private airstrip.
Bozeman is the fastest growing small city in the country. A lot of tech people are here out of Silicon Valley, functioning remotely. It’s also become a hub for some optics firms .
Sam was heading off to a Poker game at one of his locals , The Cats Claw. Gambling  licenses are relatively easy to get here, unlike the east coast, and a lot of bars run games.  There is an $800 legal limit per pot.  On a good night, Sam said, you could walk away with a couple of Grand .
So the crew at the burger joint gave me a cart load of things to do tomorrow. Very pleased with my dining spot.
To do : Norris Hot Springs; Bear Tooth Highway ….
Checked in to the Ramada . Huge room but it’s in a Ramada.
Today’s Bills:
Gas : $47
Dinner : $9
Hotel: $110
Some of my movie recommendations based in ,just departed, Wyoming:
Lots of excellent movies: Wind River; Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid (please tell me you’ve seen it) ; Brokeback Mountain (robbed of best picture Oscar by the lousy Crash that no one remembers); Unforgiven; Shane; Cat Ballou; Close Encounters of the Third Kind.
Tarantino’s last film “The Hateful Eight” was recently set here but it’s his one dud,
Books: I can’t think of a Wyoming based book I’ve read!
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Tooleing Around: Day 14

 

Butch’s bed was extremely comfortable.
A little known fact about Butch. He had no shower in his room, just a bathtub. Butch Cassidy had a special plastic Bud Light cup he used when washing. He called it Mr. Rinsey
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Monday morning late breakfast at The Busy Bee and it’s busy. Locals, tourists and Longmire fans converge. Bubbly Hayley from thd bar is working the floor here too. It’s a bit of madhouse.

Craig Johnston, the Longmire author is from outside town. The Busy Bee, I’m told,  is the breakfast spot of choice with character Longmire ,run by a fictional sassy manageress.  A manageress must always be sassy in fiction. It’s a hotspot for the fans. Its right next door to The Occidental.

Johnston’s wife owns Longmires Campaign Quarters , a store in town. I’m told you’ve more chance of seeing God than finding it open.
Hayley told me that a bedraggled Bill Lee was the first customer at The Busy Bee doors this morning, waiting outside before they opened.
He sang to her and her co-worker. That’s Life at seven o clock in the morning. He needed to find somewhere that sold phone chargers and toothbrushes. Bill Lee loves his breakfast.
Breakfast and coffee was very good as was the service. Potatoes O’Brien (I feel stereotyped), biscuit, eggs and bacon. My Primus t-Shirt started a conversation with a couple of fans.
I had two complaints on the blog that I’m smiling too much, too much teeth. I’m starting to look like an Aardman claymation character. I’ll endeavor to break that up with some homey postures and assorted expressions. Selfies are not a strength.
The Longmire store was open. I bought the first book in the series – The Cold Dish. Guessing it’s not going to be dark enough for me, I’m thinking Murder She Wrote type readers, but when in Buffalo.
The town has a Longmire festival every year and the show stars usually turn up , as does author Johnston and the missus. The fans go wild, knickers thrown, the lot.
176 miles on RT 16 to Cody. The route took me through Bighorn National Park along its serpentine mountainous roads and through it’s majestic peaks, glistening blue lakes and evergreens.  There were a lot of perfectly positioned pull over spots on the road to take in the scenery.
Stopped at a small town Willowood gas station for water They offer skull cleaning services there. Good to know.

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Then back through another big barren butte, all looking reminiscent of where Charlton Heston crashed his rocket in Planet of The Apes. If you haven’t seen the original, do.
As I drive the vast, open highways, counting the carcasses of dead beasts, I did my own mental count.
For the record, in order of poundage , here’s the list of animals I’ve smathered across the road over the years with my various vehicles:
1 deer.
2 raccoon.
3 groundhog.
1 Skunk.
3 squirrels (all deserved it).
Numerous frogs and I think some chipmunks but difficult to tell because you don’t hear a crunch.
On the inanimate front , I have destroyed:
1 BBQ grill (it came out of nowhere),
1 Gas Pump Protective Rail (also came out of nowhere).
1 Garage Door.
I’d like this count to remain unchanged.
On another side note, you have to wash your windscreen a lot in this part of the country .
I saw my first road runner, running across a road today. Who, as a child, did not want Wiley Coyote to ACME bomb that irritating avian to Looney Tune Heaven?  Beep Beep asshole.
Cody is out there, way out there. 4 hours on the road and I’m there.
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Since I’m always falsely quoting my Granny, I had to stop in Granny’s, when I saw the sign, for a coffee and the always reliable grilled cheese . Shiane, on the desk, couldn’t understand why I’d drive all the way here. Ominous start. She moved here from Salt Lake City two years ago and kinda prefers it here because Salt Lake City is so gigantic.9682BBBB-26A9-42C6-92B5-AA4FBA4C6051
Brook and Howard at Granny’s helped me out . Brook had “You are my sunshine tattooed on her forearm, in her Grannys handwriting. Not sure if Granny is above or below ground but was afraid to ask.
The Primus tee strikes again. Howard , the short order cook’s first concert was Primus opening for Rush. We bonded over  Wynonas Big Brown Beaver and Howard shared some local recommendations. Primus seems real popular in WY.
Cody was busier than I expected but I found a nice clean place, The Carter Mountain Motel, blocks from the main drag.
The owner/receptionist was slightly irritated that I booked through Hotels.com, because of her  fee. She had her cockatoo attack me at the motel front desk in retaliation.
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I took a walk down the main drag in Cody to try and catch the Internationally Renowned Western show.
Cody is much more of a bootstore, than a bookstore kind of town. But I found Legends Bookstore which was decent, housed in one of the attractive brick buildings on Sheradin.
Sheridan, the Main Street, is a very attractive, red brick lined, historic thoroughfare . I found the 6pm Western show, outside The Irma, the hotel Buffalo Bill Built for his Beloved Bride (excellent illiteration I thought).
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Gun play was in one minute. My breath was extra bated.
Well , I have the cheesiest event of trip , so far, in my holster now. The Wild Bill Wild West Show, with Wild Bill trash talking and shooting villains and vagabonds, in Cody. The only part I found amusing was the large “ATM Inside” scratched on the 1880 Bank replica used in the show.

These actors should not give up their day jobs, unless their day job is acting.

Rawhides coffee shop claimed to have the worst coffee, based on an online review. I went in and the cappuccino was decent.
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Mark Dodds, out of Kent, Ohio stopped me to chat as I arrived back to the Motel. He was sitting, watching the sunset over the mountains, having a Coord outside his room. The father of two sons,and grandfather of 5, he is partnered in business with his two sons and he had always worked with his hands. With a knee and shoulder issue he has had to retire a bit earlier than he’d like and will be getting his bits replaced this year. The family business specializes in laser calibration of large equipment.1CAD9903-4B25-4653-8EE5-0F2328C9FC5F
His first trip to WY coal country, 40 years ago , was to figure out issue with eight pieces of earth moving equipment for mines, then valued at $150k a piece . He fixed all the machines and got a promotion.
He’s an avid gun collector with 50 pieces, each of which he uses. A very active member of a gun club, he shoots twice a week. Mark is in town to visit the gun museum. He’s wandering, with a very loose plan, as I am, and will go back to Ohio somewhere between now and the end of October. Given his druthers he’d live in the West , but the grandkids and wife are back in Kent.
The mosquitos started to bother Mark so we said goodnight.
Because it was one of the few places serving until 10, I went to Wyoming’s Rib and Steakhouse, a casual joint , to eat at the bar.
I thought I’d driven a lot, until I started chatting with Brad Morrill. He’d put 460 miles on the clock today. Brad’s a traveling salesman for high end windows and doors. His sales region is Montana , Wyoming and Utah. All States have a lot of new construction going on so his business is good.
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Brad and his wife of 33 years live about 80 miles out side Salt Lake City, Utah. They are both ex-Mormons. Brad did two years as a Mormon missionary around the United Kingdom when he was 18 or 19, back around the time of the Falklands war. He was going door to door six days a week, trying to entice Brits to the Mormin life. Now if that’s not the basis for a TV series I don’t know what is.
Brad and his wife went their own way from the church some years back. He seemed to feel the expectations were very high, back in Utah, after his exhalted missionary stint.
We talked for an hour.
I had the Chicken Fried Chicken 10oz, a smaller item on the menu and very good.
I offered Brad a lift back to his hotel a couple of miles away. He is recovering from a torn ACL. He started laughing when he saw my loaded Escalade. He misinterpreted my trip a bit.
“I thought you were some rich New York asshole flying around the country”, he said.
I was elevated in Brads esteem – a driver.
Today’s Spending:
Gas: $62
Hotel: $105
Dinner: $17
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Tooleing Around: Day 13

I’m staying in a hotel room tonight that will be very hard to top on this trip. Movies and history meld!
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Filling our orange juice at the same time at the breakfast statio , I asked an Ed Flanders mustached gentleman named Duane, out of South Dakota, if he had any recommendations for the area. He very enthusiastically recommended Going To The Sun Road, a spectacular route he said would bring me through Montana, almost to Canada. He also said Buffalo, an hour away, was a nice little town.
Im going to Buffalo.
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Duane used to supply greenhouses for that whole area and now works for the Department of Agriculture, dealing with their pesticide and fertilizer needs. He’s a big proponent of avoiding I90 . He couldn’t have been nicer.
There was a broad breakfast spread with an omelette station. I had biscuits with gravy and scrambled eggs with ham through then, overlooking the plains. When in Wyoming. Nice buzz in the room, a lot of people had come from church.
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There was an unexpected conversation on wine tasting at the adjoining table, Alter wine was mentioned.
Back to the North Dakota thing. A good friend suggested the only worth while thing about visiting there would be the bragging rights. I’d be one of about 25 people from NYC ever to do so. Not reason enough.
Heading to Buffalo, WY.
An aside : Usually I read four to six books a month. Discounting audio books, that average is way down on this trip. Though by strange coincidence my current novel, The Midnight Line, is set back and forth between Rapid City and Wyoming.
Jim and Patty Brown noticed my plates at the gas station and commented I was far from home and we struck up a conversation. They own a ranch locally with some quarter horses they ride for fun. Jim, an extremely youthful 60, a Deputy Building Official for the city, recently got his DNA tested – 57% Irish!
He is also very involved in an international non profit ,concerned with international building codes (if I understood correctly) and offered to hook me up with his group on my travels.

Patty and Jim were hugely helpful telling me those places to see and critically, to avoid.Kings Saddlery is definitely on my list now, as is Bozeman.

As Jim put in a plug of Tobacco, got in his pickup and we went our ways, it struck me, my Escalade is looking smaller the further I get West.
75 miles later I’m in Buffalo, WY.
There’s not a lot open on Sundays in Buffalo  but I got lucky with the Absoraka County Store – a strange combination of coffee shop and clothing store.
Elora, named for the character Rlora Danan in Willow, was nice enough to make me an excellent French Press in the Absoraka Store in Buffalo. She recommend I drive up to Mulgers Gulch for some great views.

Elora is a senior in high school, with two younger siblings and has moved towns a bit over her years. Her dad is in natural gas and relocates quite frequently, though the family has been in Buffalo for three years and love the town. Their previous state was Pennsylvania. Aloura was in Baltimore last year and was not sure she’d take to big city life.

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Sunday was slow, Elora was running the coffee and clothing sections alone. There’d have been 7 people working the same space in NY.
Elora was another real pleasure to meet and made a damn fine coffee.
I crossed the road to check out my first gun store; had a bit of a gander ; took some selfies and bought an eight pack of sweat socks.
Jim Brown had recommended I visit The Occidental Hotel, so I dropped in.

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Rick and DeeDee were having a beer at the intriguing taxidermy filled Occidental Hotel Bar. They work a local guest ranch , The TA Ranch, 8,000 acres with 30 horses. A lot of the guests are French. The French are fascinated with all things Western. They shared some beautiful photos of their own two quarter horses. Both highly recommended I go to Cody, another historic western town, further west.

 

The bar was founded in 1880, originally in a tent, the current hotel and hunting trophy filled bar, was built in 1908. Wild bathroom too.
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Haley , the energetic and fun barmaid , is marrying an Irishman next year. She had lived in town since she was two. Her fiancée , Randall , goes by Floyd  because he loves Pink Floyd and thinks he looks like Pink from Dazed and Confused. Haley showed me Floyd’s photo. He kinda does .75AC582A-9BE7-43FD-A801-BD1203565BC7
I’m childishly pleased with the Buffalo heads in Buffalo selfies.
Met Bill Lee, and his Harley, out of Casper WY. Bill had worked at the WTC until 1999, as an engineer and lived in Brooklyn. There have been lots is States and lots of jobs since. He is retired a couple of years. Bill Lee loved his jobs.
He serenaded Haley, behind the bar, with his rendition of A Song For You (Leon Russel) followed quickly by Thats Life. He’d sung earlier at Church. Bill Lee loves to sing.
He has five kids, 7 Grand kids and another coming – and he’s been married 3 times.  Bill Lee loves the ladies.
An avid hunter, he nailed an antelope yesterday and is hoping for an elk tomorrow. It’s bow season. Bill Lee loves to hunt.
Bill told me i looked honest and that I could take his house in Casper for the night if I wanted, an hour and a half away . He told me he owns 8 houses. Bill Lee loves houses.
Bill had me come out and take photos of his Harley , and me with his Harley and the two of us with his Harley. He had recently done a 5 week road trip. Bill Lee loves his Harley .
This blow-in was made to feel so welcome in The Occidental.
I was enjoying the place so much I booked a room. The Occidental Hotel has a lot of history, Herbert Hoover; Calamity Jane; Ernest Hemingway and Teddy Roosevelt , to name a few , all stayed here .
Each room looks unique, some with western swinging doors, each with its own story, and all named after a famous resident. The Madames room is available in what was the Brothel section of the hotel. $3 back in the day got you a really good time. Today it got me an OJ not a ….
But the room I absolutely had to have was The Hole in The Wall Room . The one that Butch Cassidy stayed in.  It’s a beautiful little corner room over looking the Main Street and a happy little stream. I will amuse my self all night looking out the window and muttering “Who are those guys?”
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The saloon has bullet holes in the ceiling, origins unknown.
I left Buffalo and Bill Lee with his one glass of red, around 4, and drove around a couple of hours. Nothing open Sundays in Sheridan so i turned around and went back to Buffalo.
When I returned to the bar, to eat and listen to the live C&W, three hours later, Bill Lee was still there. He’d taken a room for the night. Bill Lee loves his red wine.
The bison burger was really good as was the live music. Taylor Corum, the solo act, had played the Old Oprey. Mister Euro Trash here actually knew some of the C&W standards  and he did cover a few Pet Shop Boy classics.
Bill Lee came over and chatted for a bit. Bill Lee is a really good guy.
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My first live music of the trip.
The bar shut down 8.30.
The Tally :
Hotel: $63 !
Gas: $24
Dinner : $16
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Tooleing Around: Day 12

‘Twas a pretty active day.
Had a happening breakfast buffet in a bright open space, with a patio , at Tru Hilton, with decent eggs and good Lavazza coffee.
The semi-tough looking crew of bikers beside me all seem to be in real estate, from over hearing their loud conversation. C21s Angels. There are a lot of bikers in Deadwood.

The 4th floor view from my room would have been great if not for that 5-story wall in the backyard. Hilton Tru is the nicest room I’ve had to date though, very new and fresh, 52” flatscreen, double queen.

My accent was picked up on again and I had an extended conversation with lovely Mary Maynard Née McDermott, from solid Irish American stock.
Mary considers herself non denominational but had strong religious beliefs. Like a lot of people, she lost faith in organized religions. Mary had 9 children in ten years, though her original plan was three. Sadly she lost a son to a motor cycling hit and run, a block from her home, a few years back , her heartbreak still evident.  We also talked about her concerns about the drinking of some of her family, a common Irish thread. Mary’s not a drinker. Mary kindly gave me her number and told me to call if I was in need, she was very warm and thoughtful.
And she was responsible for the excellent coffee.
Mary also explained how Sturgis is now just a town for the bikers, functioning solely for their big event each year. Probably not worth visiting today she said.
I got a big hug goodbye.
Started out today at the Days of 76 museum. A celebration of Deadwood history. These guys had great nicknames Deadwood Dick, Potato Creek Johnny . I’m guessing I’d have been Potato Dick back in 76.
The museum has an impressive collection of muskets and carbines and early  rifles. Housed in the museum is also an impressive collection of beautifully preserved covered wagons, carriages and other wheely western things.
Teresa, working at the Museum was extraordinarily well versed in the history of Deadwood. She had actually read all available periodicals of the day as well as available history. I was delighted to hear that HBOs Deadwood was remarkably accurate, though chronology was switched a little. We talked a bit about about the cultural influence the Western has had globally.
Teresa is also a gold prospector, with a few claims , and explained the Potato references here refer to the shape of the stones nuggets are quite often found in.BD916B60-AF39-4FFE-8380-0FC91DCB52EB
Headed into Deadwood to stake a claim and find the Adams museum.
Seems I’ve hit the Deadwood Jam Weekend, two days of non stop free music. Sweet.
Looking for the Adams Museum, located near thd music venue , I once again asked security if he knew where the museum was” No clue”, he said .It was right behind his back. Is Deadwood the Manhattan of SD? No one is actually from here?
There was an impressive looking text book on the counter with lots of unlining going on. Elizabeth, another young expert on local history, explained that the Adams building was constructed mid depression, in 1930, to house artifacts of Deadwood and regional history. It’s an ideal museum for the area. But that stuffed two headed calf – why? Nightmarish.
Elizabeth recommended The Green Bean coffee shop in Spearfish, Dough Traders for dinner ther and a fish hatchery. Elizabeth again was a huge help. She’s studying history at college in Spearfish .
Right by Adams I happened on Pump House  , a combination Cafe , bar and glass blowing center. So I bought a coke and watched a dude blow.
Where history is the needle, Casinos, bars and souvenir stores are now the Deadwood haystack. But the needle is still there. Deep.
MT. Moriah Cemetery, a little outside Deadwood center, hosts the mortal remains of Calamity Jane, right beside Wild Bill, as was her dying wish. Potato Creek Johnny snuck in there too, sneaky old spud.
Buried above them , up a quarter mile incline, is the grave of Bullock and his wife.
For those of you that don’t know who I’m talking about , read more or watch the series!
A young couple at his graveside advised I skip North Dakota , Nebraska and Kansas. As Granny used to say “ You should never ignore advice given from the side of a grave”.
The cemetery is beautiful and has a full view of Deadwood below.

I’m going to have to hit the thesaurus soon , but the Deadwood through Wyoming drive, on route something or other, was stunning.

Talked to Randy for a bit, working at the Devils Tower Gulch Bar, where I had a pit stop. His son had been to Ireland with a singing group this year, loved the place and hopes to get back very soon. Dublin’s a long haul from Devils Tower, WY. He showed me photos of a Buffalo herd that got in his way when he was doing some hauling yesterday.
“Do-do-do-do-dooooo”.
Devils Tower , WY – the parking spot of choice for any Close Encounter of the Third Kind.
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Well, yet more stunning stuff. The 1.4 mike hike around the base of Devils Tower is a trip highlight, although the climbers way up there are giving me vertigo. I did give myself a quick start to get ahead of a Japanese group with a wheelchair guy, broken foot. They had a lot of slow moving drama going on. They’ll be sending out Park Rangers to find them after dark.
My OMD t-shirt was a conversation opener with a couple from Michigen. They’d left their animals with family and friends an we’re taking their first vacation in years. They had  just seen Jeff Beck. Another couple out of California gave me a bunch of Utah recommendations. Everyone chats on these trails.
A fabulous hike.
Booked a room at Gillette last minute. I cut it close. Drove an hour, checked in at 8.
In the hour across WY, I counted three cars.
Roxy, the pretty 31 year old Mexican receptionist sat and chatted with me for an hour while she folded towels, beside the reception desk, and I waited for my laundry to dry. The hotel had a washer and dryer so I took advantage. It’s a privately owned hotel and Roxanne multi-tasks. They are lucky to have her.
Roxanne has been in the country since she was twelve , when she moved to Minnesota with her Uncle. She stayed there until three months ago when she moved to Gilette, where she had a friend. She is a single mother of two pretty and charming little girls, five and eight ( I met them there). Roxy works each evening until midnight and also does some cleaning work during the day for a different outfit. Something which she enjoys because she gets to see some of the fancier homes in Gillette. She’d like to get different shifts to have more time with the kids. Her Mother is visiting soon, they enjoy driving around together and she does get to México every couple of years.
A customer needed an extra key card, the towels were folded and my drying was done.
I hope everything works out for Roxy and the kids.
I’m in Wyoming.
The Tally
Hotel: $58 Arbuckle Lodge
Gas: $42
Dinner at Old Chicago Pizza: $15
South Dakota book and movie recommendations:
Books: Little Nig Man; Deadwood ( Peter Dexter); The Midnight Line
Movies: Badlands; North by Northwest ; The Revenant; Little Big Man
… and of course HBOs Deadwood.

Tooleing Around: Day 11

* couldn’t get my PC to connect so the post today was all done from iPhone. Lots of typos Im sure I could not get photos from the camera… oh well.

Since I’d missed a couple of locations I wanted to see in Rapid City, I went back to Pure Bean for brekkie.

Grey sheets and towels you could use to smooth wood, more rules than the NFL, but I slept like an infant in the Holy Smoke Cabin in the Woods.

 

Visited The historic Hotel Alex Johnson , opened in 1928. It has long been known as one of the most haunted hotels in South Dakota. From the “lady in white” to the ghost of Alex Johnson himself.

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Stopped in at the store there. Jennifer, the proprietor of five years, told me that I had to see Badlands, that it would be a religious experience. The store is fascinating, full of curios. I bought another book. Jennifer explained that from a business standpoint Prime Tourist season is Memorial to the thundering Buffalo Roundup the end of September.

Jennifer, of Scandinavian descent showed me the wooden chest her grandmother had packed to travel to this country, semi hidden under a display table.

She also showed me the intricate Murder of Crows tattoo on her forearm, she claimed it was her gift to herself for her mid life crises. Felt it was cheaper and safer than some of her other options.

Art alley was right beside the Hotel, a lane where local artists can spay the walls with their works, with a permit.

The dork in me was drawn across the road to The Storyteller comic store. I still have a soft spot for graphic novels. Jordon, the exhuberent manager, a little longer in the tooth than the usual comic store manager, pointed me to the section and I bought something called Nailbiter. I mentioned that I live near Forbidden Planet and Jordon jealously commented , “oh you play with the big boys”. The Storyteller looked like Clarence’s workplace in True Romance .

Terrible song today, that we all secretly like and know the words to Africa – by that most African of bands, Toto.

Thirty miles outside Rapid City I noticed a yellow envelope on my windscreen. My first parking ticket ever. I checked te space and I was only an hour. WT….

 

Got to use my National Parks Pass for the first time , which I’d purchased last minute on the advice of s well traveled friend.

Badlands have a barren magnificence, one the most beautiful places I’ve seen . The 22 mile drive around the park has been a highlight of the trip so far.

Where not a complete religious experience,I did see a rock that looked like Mother Teresa.

Met Kelley, and Ben the dog, out of Minneapolis , on a Badlands ridge. She recommended I see Buffalo , Wyoming.

Kelley, left her job, bought a van,took a 10 week stint on the road two years ago and has freelanced since in Project Management. She loves seeing this country and wants to hit the road again soon. She’s thinking of getting another van.

Kelley advised I see State Forests a lot, but that the State Parks can get a bit over populated. Observed that myself at Grand Canyon, the Atlantic City of National Parks.

Now, for those of you that have never seen the Terrence Malick masterpiece Badlands, you really should.

I grew up on cowboy movies. Weekends at The Town Hall, Galway there was often a double-bill matinee of a Bond movie feature and a spaghetti western opener.

I couldn’t tell you how often I saw the Eastwood , Man With No Name Trilogy. Shane; The Man Who Shot Liberty Vallance; Tomstone; My Darling Valentine; Rio Bravo; The Magnificent Seven; I love them all . Deadwood is one of the greatest series ever made; Lonesome Dove my favorite book and excellent mini series; Godless this year, great; For a Few Dollars More, the best Western ever, the watch chimes give me goosebumps every time.

All this is my, not long winded because I love cowboy films, way of saying I’m psyched to be in Deadwood. Go Bullock !

Checked in at the Hilton , hit the gym, showered then took a walk down Main Street Deadwood . Quickly  learned, its a 24 hour Casino town and lots of people smoke here. I happened on the Deadwood Friday night free outdoor concert event, some country rock band. Lots of people were feeling no pain there at all. I asked 6 different attendees, 3 ushers and the officer in charge at the entrance, the name of the band. No one knew.

If I learned anything in life it’s that every town has a Chinese restaurant and Irish bar. Paddy O Neil’s, a Chinese Restaurant , was still serving food at 10PM.

Took a quick sweep around the Casino back at the hotel. Nothing quite as grim as slot machine jockeys.

 

Todays Tally:

hotel: $124

gas: $23

dinner: $8.37

Tooleing Around: Day 10

Pure Bean on Main Street, Rapid City has to be my favorite breakfast to date; a homemade biscuit with bacon, egg and cheese and excellent house blend coffee.

Delightful Destiny, from Rapid City, recommended I stop at Keystone on the way to Rushmore and told me to eat at Grizzly Creek. Her family owns it. Grandma works as the hostess sometimes. She also recommended Powder House Lodge as a good place to stay. Destiny works there as well. I’ll start looking into lodges as well as hotels.

Nathan was also generous with local info. He’s from Bismarck ND. He was a roaster for the coffee shop before the current job and his uncle is partner in the business. Pure Bean is located in the old creamery building , the coffee is resident in the old milk lab with the drains covered up. Cool brick floor. The Uncle/Owner was involved in the Portland coffee scene and his business partner the only Q Grader in SD – a coffee sommelier.

As a North Dakotan, Nathan recommends a very brief visit there, if at all. I may Nebraska it.

Their coffee was great. I had 3 cups. I stayed too long.

Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, the biggest bike event in the world, brings in around a million bikers annually to the general region. Those weeks are a huge contributor to the local economy. That explains last night’s odd Wi-Fi password – sturgis67.

Continuing my local bookstore quest, I found Mitzi’s on Main Street a sweet little shop. Heather, behind the counter, had a broad breadth of book knowledge. We agreed on a lot (Little Fires Everywhere) but I don’t share her love of science fantasy. I appropriately bought a small novel called The Bookstore.

From there the half hour to Rushmore.

My natural cynical expectation was to be underwhelmed by Mt. Rushmore, but man when you round that highway and see it up there for the first time it really is a sight to behold. Again, with the movies – I remember as a child watching Carey Grant hang on up there in North by Northwest. Remarkable to think some hair brained stone carver’s idea turned in to this cash cow.

I was hoping to use “behold” in a sentence sooner rather than later.

Well, I got a tiny bit carried away in the gift store.

A folding Mt. Rushmore knife with my name on it (nothing ever says Karl); a Mt. Rushmore keychain nail clippers (it’s a keychain and a nail clippers) ; a Mt. Rushmore T-Shirt (Maroonish) and a glow in the dark Mt. Rushmore Christmas Tree Decoration .Bonanza!

And as Granny would say, what you spend on the swings, you save in the roundabout. Or something like that. Cheap lodgings tonight, no gas needed today.

John Oliver is responsible for my next set of nightmares. If I thought fiberglass Jesus was creepy, it was nothing compared to the National Presidential Wax Museum.

On the positive side, Pat, a retired Accountant from Custer, who now works at the museum, was a pleasure to talk to. Her husband, who she’s been with 50+ years, had a kidney replacement recently and is doing well. They had bought a RV in the last while and hoped to take advantage of that soon, though her new job kept her busy this year. Pat was nice enough to capture some of my stunning poses at the museum.

I’m noticing much more this side of the country that the RV culture is prevalent.

Ear popping trails brought me through the Black Hills National Park on the way to Custer. I’m not sure these 15MPH roads were designed for Escalades, with their spectacular one way mini-roads and tunnels through the rock face. There were great views from the stops up top of the mountain.

Then further on for a bit of a ramble through Custer State Park.

I did see a very small herd of Buffalo (one) and a number of mule and white tail deer, a couple of four pointers.

Not as much fun driving back along those narrow lanes at sunset as it was exploring in daylight.

Holy Smoke Cabins in Keystone is where I’m booked in tonight, with an attached RV Park.  I needed to get there by 8PM before the office closed and was pushing the clock a bit.

Fun song that popped up today: The Heat is On – Glenn Frey. Name that Movie for 10.

As an interesting development on this trip, no one sells club soda – my usual drink. I’m being forced to drink water. It’s not bad, similar taste.

I had a very good Filet Mignon at The Powder House Lodge (I couldn’t get a room there), a recommendation from Destiny this morning.

Carter & Me
Carter & Me

Not in a hurry to go back to the shack, I dropped into Buddies Bar, Keystone for an OJ, the kind of establishment I used to haunt back in the day. Joined in on a “why did we ever go to Wall Drug “conversation with some other tourists. We were all fooled by the endless miles of signs.

I started a natter with Devon & Kim from Novi, Michigan at the bar counter. They told me to avoid North Dakota like the pox. They spent time with relatives there yesterday and escaped in a hurry to Keystone.

Devon showed me photos of prairie dogs and buttes and told me that was the full ND story. They also convinced me not to bother seeing the Crazy Horse Monument as it’s not finished and never will be and shared a photo of that too. Devon & Kim are doing more to destroy the tourist industry than that hurricane.

Saves me a lot of hours and the price of a Crazy Horse ticket.

A correction for fellow traveling buddies, I met yesterday. Pam and Michael – Wisconsin not Wyoming.

Some Iowa based recommendations having departed that State

Movies: Bonnie and Clyde; The Straight Story; Field of Dreams ; Star Trek (Kirk’s home)
Books: The Nix; Grasshopper Jungle

Today’s Cost:

Hotel: $90
Dinner: $31
Cheesy Souvenirs: $72

Tooleing Around: Day 9

I met Frances McDormand today.

Brekkie was a good coffee and a very fresh blueberry muffin at the Cornerstone Coffee & Coffeehouse in Mitchell. When the top rated coffee spot on Google turned up as McDonalds I got a bit of a fright. After a little more searching, all turned out fine.

The Comfort Inn, Mitchell was one of those places where if one resident flushed the whole hotel shook. Lots of flushing went down.

Well I hit the payload of travel information and advice today in Mitchell.

Michael & Pam DeLambo sold everything 4 years ago and now travel the country in their RV doing volunteer work. They down anchor in their place of choice and stay as many months as the feel. They spent their last few months in Montana. West Virginia is their favorite stop to date; Pam told of a night when the night was lit by millions of fireflies and they loved the local music.

Michael was in the Navy during the Cold war, cruising on submarines. They were tracking Russians in the North waters. He had a lot of great stories to tell and a couple of scars to show, mainly from the good times in Scottish pubs he explained.

Originally residents of Illinois and Wyoming, they love their new life on the road. My two months of travel pale.

On to my first destination of the day, the world famous Corn Palace of Mitchell.

Entering the Corn Palace you are greeted by the sickening sweet smell of Caramel popcorn. I want to toss my cookies when people nuke the stuff in the office, but this is overwhelming.

Digital Camera

Well, how can one describe the Corn Palace?  The Louvre of South Dakota? The Whitney of the midwest. I saw a cleaning lady yell at her mop bucket.

You have to wonder what the work application of a corn artist reads like. They were toiling away with repairs to the front wall of the Palace this morning. Does it pop in extreme heat?

At the souvenir store cash register, the darling woman told me my accent got her cornfused. Get it? CORNfused. Bet that was the first time she used that one. I purchased the ugliest Christmas decoration in creation. It will never be let near my tree.

 

This has to be the most America venue I’ve visited. A very Marty McFly auditorium (cornatorium?) , if it wasn’t for all the ugly corn murals. It’s great. I could say the place was really cheesy but… you know what I’m going to say…

Cornatorium
Cornatorium

My Irish Catholic induced phobias kicked in to overdrive when I visited the creepy  Walk Thru Ancient Bible World across the street. Marionettes and religion and a weird tin donkey, this will haunt my dreams for years. I commented as such to another visitor. He admired the artistry. Shudder.

Signage on brown brick building down the street boasted the Greatest Coffee Shop in the World. After plastic Jesus, Mary & Joseph, I needed one. It was out of business.

There are 270 Miles between Mitchell and Wall Drugs. This better be worth this drive. The signs for this Wall place started at the State line.

It’s a long and windy day on them there plains crossing South Dakota. I stopped for a soda at the Crow Creek Reservation in Fort Jefferson and Denise recommended I see the Big Bend Dam. So I did briefly then took to the Interstate, it’s so flat you practically get the same views whatever you are driving on.

I happened on the 1880 Town by chance so pulled off the highway for a look see. It was so right up my alley. Dances with Wolves was filmed in the region and they have a full exhibit movie of memorabilia and a mish-mash of other historical Western artifacts.

The beautiful John Barry, Oscar winning score was playing throughout the town. The 1880 Town is made of original western constructs from the 1800s,  moved from other locations. I was so movie geek pleased.

Four hours later and a time zone change, I got to Wall Drugs – South Dakota Tacky Central.

Mira Doroftei  a Romanian exchange, was a surprise employee to find working in the Western and Periodicals Bookstore in backwoods SD. Mira noticed my accent we got to talking. Mia is studying for a Bachelor Degree in Psychology, back home in Romania and is here as part of the Work and Travel United States program. She will graduate next year.

Mira has been here since June and worked in Sun Valley pre Wall. She is taking a two day bus ride to NY early October for a brief visit, the JFK home. Mia already had a multi legged bus and flight adventure to make it here from Bucharest; another student with incredible drive.

Ok – Bizarre moment in the Wall Drug restaurant. I was about to take a selfie in the backroom of the place and was asked if I minded not getting the group behind me in it. It looked like a kids birthday gig, all wearing Kelly green paper hats. Of course it was not a problem. I then saw Frances McDormand walking by with a Wall Drug party hat and waitresses outfit. I said hello, shook her hand, and congratulated her on her Oscar win and working with the Irish.  She was very nice.

In Wall Drug, what are the chances?

Wall Drug
Wall Drug

I booked a roo, last minute online again, at the Grand Gateway Hotel, Rapid City.

Popped down to the bar/karaoke/casino Cheers, for an OJand listened to a few massacred C&W standards.

Cheers was a mix of hotel residents and locals, hosted by the usual over enthusiastic KJ. The voices were no better or worse than in NYC, just a lot less Koreans.  One large lad unfortunately took the “dance like you’re alone in your living room” thing too literally and of course someone always butchers a Patsy Cline song (Crazy tonight).

330 miles added to the odometer today.

Today’s Bills:

Gas : $92
Hotel: $115
Dinner: $12

Tooleing Around: Day 8

Today I’m wearing a skull themed, Queens of the Stone Age t-shirt so I look tough as I move further west into South Dakota. The skull has a sky blue circumference which nicely accents my shorts .

Moving away from Manning today means I will miss the official ribbon cutting for the new Waspys but, the road beckons.

Found some local sites of interest right behind the hotel. Dorothy, a life long local in her golden years, took my $6 this morning and I took a quick walk through the historic German house barn and glanced at the Church. The field side church was moved from its original location a few years back because of a dwindling congregation. With its picturesque location it has since become a wedding hot bed.

To Deb’s Corner Cafe, in Manning, for Breakfast, I was too late for breakfast. Everyone serves a grilled cheese though . Debs had the feel of a local spot for local people, a little Royston Vaseyish.

The road to South Dakota took me along the Iowa State Scenic Highway , which had some variety on the flat, wide open corn field theme. I think it was flat, wide open soy fields.

First lesson learned in South Dakota, its 80MPH on the highways. Southern South Dakota makes Iowa look mountainous. I’m missing the corn.

Reached Sioux Falls and went tooling around aimlessly and happened on The Great Plains Zoo. As a family, back in Ireland, our annual outing was the CIE train from Galway to the Dublin Zoo, with cheese and corned beef sandwiches packed in tin foil and cans of Corrib Orange. I’ve a soft spot for zoos so I pulled in there at five for a quick look around.  They close at six.

The zoo has good black and brown bear enclosures and a couple of healthy looking tigers. Got to see my first Red Wolf there, seemingly saved from extinction since 1980 when at serious risk. They are not red. So that’s my David Attenborough bit for the trip done.

I also happened on the falls in Sioux Falls. It’s in a very attractive city park with wandering walkways. Chatted a bit with Jenny from Illinois. Jenny is a Chemist , graduated Washington State and works for Waters – they weigh molecules. She gave me great pointers as someone who had driven SD and lots of recommendations for the Seattle area, her old stomping ground.

Sioux Falls - Falls
Sioux Falls – Falls

Nothing but dive hotels available in Sioux Falls tonight. Metallica are here in concert so everything’s sold out. If I’d have known I’d have scalped a ticket. I booked an hour away in my original destination town, Mitchell.

Dinner tonight was the jalapeño , goat cheese , bacon burger at Ode to Food and Drink, a high end joint, in Downtown Sioux Falls. It was outstanding. The pepper was ground through the patty. One of the tastiest burgers I’ve had and easily my best meal to date on the road.

Downtown Sioux Falls is home to to Raven, who produce the Macy’s day floats and is also the home of the original Motel 8. Braden, the bartender, from Aberdeen up North, was a mine of information. He may have made all this up, which would be even better. He made a damn fine cappuccino too.

80Mph across South Dakota in the pitch dark – Christ on a broomstick.

I’m booked at the Comfort Inn tonight in Mitchell. Or just Inn as I’ll call it.

A big travel day . – 260 miles IA to SD.

I did have a request from a friend to include a lot more local art pieces. Anything spirally. or bronzy Done.

Mitchell Corn Palace tomorrow – the Disney of South Dakota.

Today’s Price Tag:

Hotel : $72

Dinner : $23

Gas: $22

Tooleing Around: Day 7

Well, today was quite the rollercoaster of lowbrow to highbrow experiences.

The Gateway Hotel, last night, was fair value for money. Nothing special but it served its purpose. I had a fine big, double queen room with a campus view. It is a bigger hotel, primarily there to service the Iowa State crowd.

Having seen signs all over for Kum & Go, I had to find out what type of service they provided. They are just gas stations. I bought a hat with a bottle opener built in.

My day started in The Stomping Ground Cafe, close by the Iowa State Campus. They had really good, made to order coffee and poached eggs served out on their bright and airy patio. I’d go back.

First order of my travel day was to find the gnome. Extensive research revealed it to be domiciled in the Reiman Gardens at Iowa State University. As well as the oversized sprite the gardens host a walkthrough butterfly enclosure and a Wind, Waves & Light exhibit of wind sculptures. I rushed through them all to find the gnome.

Dennis, in his stone magnificence, was everything I could have wished for – 13 plus feet of elfen manliness. Important to note, he’s they biggest stone gnome in the world. Some fiberglass giant gnome in some other gnome-land got bend out of shape at the biggest gnome claim, so they had to get specific. Stone.

Dennis the Gnome & Minion
Dennis the Gnome & Minion

Then it was onward to the campus itself.

Javier, originally from Houston and of Mexican descent, was generous enough to help me navigate the Iowa State Campus. He is specializing in food studies (and I know I got that course title wrong). He felt he would get a greater world view through studying away from home.  He hopes to return to work in Houston when he graduates, where his family all are.

Good fortune and Javier brought me to the campus Art Gallery and Nancy Gebhart. Nancy is the Professor of Art and Visual Culture and Curator of Contemporary Art exhibits. Where Nancy is curating a number exhibits, the absorbing Unpacked – Refugee Baggage exhibit is featuring in the main gallery. The pieces are intricate and extraordinary and the audio accompaniments are heartbreaking. Each piece represents the real story of a surviving refugee.

Nancy Gebhardt - Curator
Nancy Gebhart – Professor & Curator

You are invited, as you exit the exhibit, to write down those things you would pack, given only 30 minutes to flee your home. It’s not easy. If you ever have the chance to see this exhibit, please do. The pieces are beautiful.

Nancy was extremely generous with her time and walked me through each piece. It was a rare treat. We also had an extended discussion on art; books; concerts; films; Iowa & New York. Nancy’s five year old daughter is a dedicated Beatles fan, who recently threw over Paul in favor of Ringo when she started learning the drums. The childs got taste.

I only left because my car was on a meter off campus. I was loving the conversation.

As I departed the gallery, I pondered whether I was really juvenile enough to embark on the next stage of the trip. The answer was unequivocally YES. I was going to drive two hours cross country to see Albert, the world’s largest concrete Bull. My father’s name was Albert. How could I not?

Albert the Great
Albert the Great

Albert was everything I could have dreamed of. I was informed, by a local gas station employee , that Big Bull Al,  was somehow featured during the Super Bowl this year so he drew multitudes in 2018.

So that you all have the full Bull history:

Albert, the World’s Largest Bull, has stood in Audubon Iowa since 1964. 30 feet tall and 33 feet long, he has a 15-foot span between horns. He also has baby blue eyes and giant concrete gonads, often whimsically repainted by folks celebrating various events.

There was nowhere I wanted to stay in Audubon so I checked in online to Boulders Inn and Suites in Manning, 23 miles away.

I had dinner in a Waspys Truck Stop Café, Templeton. Fried chicken with mash and coleslaw and it was surprisingly good. Also surprising, all the customers in there know one another. I learned that this Waspys is new to town.

Everyone remembers their first truck-stop dinner.

By coincidence, charming Danielle Hale, the receptionist at the hotel turned out to be an Ohio State student and had taken elective classes with Nancy Gebhart. Mine was a late check in and the front desk was quiet so we had a grand, long conversation.

21 year old Danielle is obviously very smart and definitely has it all together. She lives locally, as do her six sisters. I got the run down from her on Manning, which has an interesting looking main street and has a lot of employment in brewing and construction. I’ll take a walk around tomorrow.

Danielle works evenings at the hotel but is also a full time Ohio State Student, commuting back and forth an hour and forty minutes, each way, every day. She also works at a clinic weekends and is a sorority member, she already owns her own house in Manning and is extensively travelled internationally and domestically.

I was so in awe of this young woman. I think at 21 I was just drunk. All that and she has been employee of the month theses past two months. I think Danielle will be very successful in life.

Employee of the Month X 2

The unexpected song that made me smirk today: Hit Me With Your Rhythm Stick  – Ian Dury and the Blockheads.

On the Audio front, I finished American Kingpin. Where it’s an engrossing story, I would have preferred hear it in Podcast Format, interspersed with interviews. It is extremely well researched and I hope it gets turned into a mini-series, on a channel that doesn’t skimp on graphic representations.

The American Kingpin reader got on me nads again though, with his two intonations.

#1:  His Own Voice,  slightly breathless – this represented most men.

#2: The Prissy/Stick Stuck Firmly Up There Voice – this same voice represented Women;  Irritated or Scared Men; Spanish; Asian; Children and a puppy.

Today’s Tally:
Hotel: $93
Dinner: $8.20
Gas: $43